Chicken Inasal: Bacolod’s Smoky Success

When I was in high school, I used to pass by Cuadra-Gatuslao Sts. every day coming home from school because that was where the jeepney terminal going to our place was located. On that street corner, I’d see small chicken stands with piles of chicken in barbecue sticks waiting to be grilled. People would line up to buy their favorite inasal—that’s what Negrenses call anything that’s barbecued.

They sold chicken thighs/legs, wings (pakpak), chicken ass (isol), pecho (breast), tina-e, (intestines) and more. Sugba chorizo, pork barbecue and inasal na tinapay (pan de siosa) were also included in the assortment. Later on, these chicken stalls were transferred to a more accessible place at the city’s reclamation area (now M. Ferrero St.) and it became known as Manokan Country.

Manokan Country is a long alley of food stalls serving authentic chicken inasal, seafood and other turo-turo style selections (different kinds of viands). Here, customers can dine and drink in the food stalls, they are not air-conditioned though.  Hmmn, who would think that these chicken barbecue stalls I used to see near the jeepney terminal would later on become one of Bacolod’s iconic landmarks?  Whenever I mention about my hometown, people would always associate Bacolod with chicken inasal and how good it tastes.

As years passed, versions of chicken inasal recipes continued to evolve and even homemakers would create new flavors of the chicken inasal marinade.  But as the saying goes, nothing beats the original, the simpler the flavor, the tastier the inasal is.

On a rainy afternoon I wanted to satisfy my craving so I decided to walk through the alley of Manokan Country to savor once again Bacolod’s famous chicken inasal and my feet brought me to one of the stalls there- Nena’s Beth.

I ordered pa-a (chicken leg) and plain rice. That’s all.  Just because I know this meal can already fill my tummy and it is budget friendly.

They give utensils to those who want to use them but chicken inasal is best enjoyed when eaten by hand. So, while waiting for my inasal, I made my dipping sauce (sawsawan) of sinamak (spiced vinegar), soy sauce, fresh chili and calamansi.

See that orange thing? That’s chicken oil sautéed in garlic and atchuete (annatto seeds). It adds more flavor when you drizzle this on your piping hot rice. Ooops, but not too much for those with high cholesterol!

Nena’s Beth chicken inasal tastes just right, not too salty and it’s juicy too. It’s evenly cooked inside so there’s no “lansa” taste.  Guys, you can also order a plate of oysters (talaba). Almost every stall in Manokan Country has a talaba stand, you can have it as appetizer or you can eat it together with your choice of inasal.

So, what are you waiting for? Grab a stick at a stall nearest you today or just hail a jeepney going to Manokan Country. Sure, they know where it is. CCT